Guanaja is one of the Bay Islands about 70km off the North coast of Honduras and 12km from Roatan. The last time we stopped at Guanaja was a few years ago to repair and hand sew a rip in our main sail, we anchored in the harbour area, did our repairs, hauled anchor and moved on. We always hoped we would return and now we had an opportunity to explore the Island and one of it’s cays called Bonacca.
Bonacca, is also described as the Venice of Honduras because of the waterways that run through this tiny 0.5km x 0.3km island. It’s home to roughly 5,500 people, living in houses along the towns narrow streets, so you really have to get on with your neighbours here!
It’s a fascinating place, once a British Crown Colony, the Caracol people’s language is English, they are of African descent with a bit of European thrown in, having come from the English speaking Caribbean migrants who came to work on the construction of railroads and banana plantations for the United Fruit Co. It’s interesting to hear as they use some old English words and terms. Spanish is their second language, as opposed to mainland Honduras which is primarily Spanish speaking. Due to the influx of mainland Honduran people working in Bonnaca, Spanish tries to get a hold here, but English is most definitely the local’s language of choice, and we were often told that English will always be their first language! Apparently according to one of the locals descended from the Africans brought here they took the Government to the Court of Human rights to retain there right to use and talk the english language.
The majority of the population live on the small Island due to the number of biting insects on the main Island, we found out for ourselves later how bad these were.
On the 1st October, 2021 a fire ripped through the town of El Cayo on Bonnaca shortly after dawn. Most of the dwelling on this Cay are wooden, so the fire spread rapidly with people grabbing belongings and buckets of water to prevent the blaze from engulfing the tiny Island. There is no fire service, thankfully the Honduran Air Force arrived on the scene and repeatedly dropped water on the blaze, and finally the blaze was under control and though a large section of the town was lost, mercifully no one died and the rest of the Island was saved. People evacuated by boat into the waters around the Island, returning to salvage what they could. Humanitrian aid was provided and shelters were provided on the main island of Guanaja for residents who had lost their homes. The fire destroyed over 200 homes, businesses were damaged, more than 400 people were displaced. It was rumoured that a lighted candle having fallen, took hold of a property, due to the sheer concentration of dwellings, it was simple for the fire to jump from one home to another. Fortunately the fire was stopped before reaching the petrol tanks which provide fuel for the boats, the entire Island would have been blown up.
We picked up our friend Bev and dinghied the short distance over to Bonnaca, meeting up with Soy and David. Tying the dinghy up alongside some steps by the little ferry station, we were warmly greeted by a local called Hondo. Would we like to have a tour round his town? Lead on Hondo!
Hondo took us through the network of alleyways to what is known as Ground Zero, the semi derelict area of town where once there were homes. Rebuilding is still going on, however it’s difficult to get building materials here and though there was some financial help, progress over two years is slow. Plots of sand where homes once stood, share this area of town alongside new dwellings. The memory of the fire is still in the air, you can sense it, Hondo shows us where his home stood. He has begun rebuilding, but my word it’s going to take some considerable time, as he tells us he isn’t a wealthy man.
There are new wooden homes gradually filling Ground Zero which lift the sombre mood in this area and there is the happy sound of children playing once more.
We feel sad for Hondo and his friends, yet he is resiliant and optimistic, he is grateful to be alive and amongst the people themselves, there is no self pity, the town is energetic and vibrant.
Walking back to the close knit community, noise and bustle of town, it comes as no surprise that everyone knows each other, I doubt there are any secrets kept here, I wonder how the young adults manage to have any private life and as for dating! Well, judging by the babies here they manage! Hondo leaves us to our exploring and we help him with a donation towards building materials. Over our time here we get to know him well, and he becomes a good friend, full of knowledge if we need help in sourcing anything.
The narrow canals criss cross the edges of the cramped streets, some waterways are quite pretty, no health and safety here, miss your footing and you’re in the canal! Some houses are brightly painted, others are shabby chic, some delapidated, all have a charm of their own.
We all made very welcome and find a bar, run by Anthony, which, over our time here becomes our local. It sits facing the main thoroughfare so nothing of interest is missed, the locals meet up too, it’s the communal hub with dogs and children sprinting through the middle of the bar.
We shop at a couple of the shops along the main street for fresh veg and fruit. It’s all brought in by the daily ferry, and we have to dodge the wide, ramshackle trolleys piled high with boxes of produce, at times we have to press ourselves against the wall of a shop to let the men go past, pushing their trolleys at a fair lick through the narrow alleys!
Watching two young lads earn some cash by pushing a trolley, Terry jumps in to give them a hand. Love it here!!
sisu journey 