MID FEBRUARY 2024 , SAPODILLA – CAYE CAULKER, BELIZE 38NM
We’re gradually working our way North, calling in at Caye Caulker, an island 5 miles long, 1.2 miles wide and with a population less than 1,500. We were determined this season to break out of the Guatemala, Belize, Honduras loop, so on 22 February between us we hauled anchor as dawn broke and enjoyed a delightful motor sail in 10/11 knots of wind, we even managed a brief sail in the light winds! With conditions this good, we & our friends Lucie & Michel s/v Moyak decided to continue to Drowned Cay a further 10nm, rather than our rep planned stop at Robinsons Cay, dropping anchor at 4pm in a peaceful and calm 200ft mangrove lined channel 17ft deep, our overnight stop before the final 10nm to Caye Caulker.
The following morning, our two hour motor sail to Caye Caulker began with dolphins playing alongside us, always a cheery sight, less so is looking at our depth instrument indicating 0.4ft at times along some shallow stretches further down our route!
We made base camp anchoring in 12ft of clear water, fitting in a quick swim before meeting up with Michel & Lucie at one of the many beachside bars.
Caye Caulker’s very much a young back packers Island, easy vibe, the sandy roads in a grid layout were busy with golf carts and bicycles with many eateries, bars, tourist shops and supermarkets to keep visitors fed & watered.
A popular tourist attraction visiting the Iguana Reef Inn and paddling with the large rays who arrive every day at 4pm to be fed, how they know it’s 4pm is a mystery, angle of the sun perhaps? Nevertheless, arrive they do and it makes quite a spectacle!
Caye Caulker suffered a hurricane in the result of which physically split the Island in two! This nature made channel has become the Islands USP, where you can be photographed next to large colourful concrete letters stating that you are at “the split”, clever marketing!
We enjoyed a very reasonably priced lobster & snapper dinner at the popular Reinas BBQ. Freshly caught & bbq’d whole lobster, a whole grilled snapper, 2 g&ts, and beers just £78 inc a tip. The restaurant was understandably busy, when we left, a good sized queue had formed, patiently waiting and being gently smoked by the large bbq at the entrance, it’s long grill laden with large lobsters.
Our next leg North took us out of Belizean territory and into Mexico, so we are required to get the necessary paperwork in order to leave. This meant going to the Belize Port Authority office, a 30 minute water taxi ride away to the largest of Belize’s cayes, Ambergris Caye, San Pedro town, sometimes dealing with paperwork can be fun! The ride out was in an open topped lancha, these guys have the best jobs, imagine your daily job blasting to and from each Island across aquamarine waters! Puts a whole spin on Monday Blues!
San Pedro is a bustling holiday spot, primary coloured plastic bunting zigzaged and flapping across narrow streets which are chocablock with golf carts. We dodged our way past and around the carts to reach the Port Authority office.
Incredibly, there’s an air strip right in the middle of the town, small planes taxied, landed on the short length of run way, with what appeared to be just a wing span away from power cables!
Paperwork completed we had a quick lunch and returned for the lunchtime water taxi, this time on one of the covered water taxis, equally as cool!
Every sunset is magical!
All too soon, it was time to leave, I spent a morning preparing easy to eat food for our 245nm, 3 day passage to Isla Mjueres. But that’s a whole different tale!
sisu journey 